Attic air sealing in Hollister CA - fewer drafts and less dust in the rooms below
Drafty bedrooms, dust along the ceiling, a power bill that keeps climbing. We find the leaks into the attic and close them.
I climb into your attic myself
I come out and look at the attic myself before you get an estimate, because the leaks that matter hide under the insulation, not where you can see them from the hatch. Our crew does the sealing, and I check it before we call it done.
In business since 2017
We've been at this since 2017, and I was crawling attics on summer crews long before I could drive myself to the job. I'd rather tell you sealing isn't worth it than sell you a job you don't need.
Fully licensed and insured
We're fully licensed and insured, which is the first thing to ask anyone headed up into your attic. Call (831) 245-4007 or send the form below, and we'll set a time for me to come out.
Attic air sealing for Hollister homes
Attic air sealing in Hollister means closing the holes between your rooms and the attic, so the air you paid to heat or cool stays in the house. It's for homes that feel drafty, run hot upstairs or pull dust in from above.
The big leaks are rarely the ones you'd guess. They're usually where interior walls meet the attic floor, over dropped soffits, the lowered ceiling boxes above cabinets and tubs, and behind kneewalls, the short walls in rooms tucked under the roof. Smaller ones sit around pipes, wires, can lights and the hatch. California has a contractor license just for insulation work, covering any material put in to control heat or sound.
What moves the price is how many leaks there are, how easy the attic is to move around in, and whether anything has to be fixed or pulled out before sealing starts. The schedule turns on the same things, since a repair comes first. You get a written estimate listing what needs fixing first and what we'd do. We're based in Hollister and work in the cities around it, so call and ask if you're not sure about yours.
Attic air sealing, repairs and what goes on top
Dirty insulation is our leak map
Insulation catches dust the way a furnace filter does, so where house air has pushed through it for years, it turns gray or black. Those dirty spots are our map, and we'll show you what we found. Small holes around pipes and wires get caulk, and bigger gaps get expanding spray foam. Dropped soffits, open wall tops and large holes get covered with drywall, rigid foam or reflective foil. Can lights rated for contact with insulation get a bead of caulk at the ceiling and a sealed cover from the attic side.
Wet or moldy spots get fixed first
Wet insulation or moldy framing gets fixed before we seal anything, because sealing over a moisture problem just gives it a nicer lid. A bath fan blowing into the attic and old knob and tube wiring belong on that fix-first list too. Some older attics hold vermiculite, a light, pea-size, flaky gray fill that may contain asbestos, and it stays untouched until an approved lab tests it. Hot flues and chimneys need a gap to anything that can burn, so those gaps get aluminum flashing and heat-resistant caulk, not foam.
Choosing what goes on top
Sealing is the first half. Spray foam insulation costs more and seals air while it insulates, but for most attics, sealing the gaps and topping up with blown-in loose fill wins, unless the ductwork runs up there. If your house is older and the insulation already in place is worth keeping, retrofit insulation adds to it without starting over. California's energy code sets some standards for a house's outer shell by climate zone, so the rules for your Hollister house depend on the zone it sits in.
Get a written plan for sealing your attic
We reply within one business day to set a time for me to look at your attic, and the free on-site estimate carries no obligation. Note any drafty rooms, gas appliances and how you reach the attic.
(831) 245-4007How attic sealing works with us
You call, I come look
Call (831) 245-4007 or send the form, and we'll get back to you. Then I come out and go up into the attic myself, so it helps to clear a path to the hatch and tell me which rooms bother you most.
A written estimate, fixes first
You get a written estimate that lists what needs fixing before any sealing, like a wet patch or bad wiring, and then what we'd seal and how. Nothing starts until you've read it and told us to go ahead.
Our crew seals, I check
Our crew does the sealing, and I check the work before we call it done. Then we walk through it with you, so you see where the leaks were and what closed them.
Attic air sealing questions from Hollister
How do I know if my attic needs air sealing?
Drafty rooms, rooms that never feel like the thermostat says, high heating or cooling bills, or dust in the rooms under the attic all point to leaks up there. Any one of those is reason enough to have the attic looked at. Call and I'll come take a look.
Is attic air sealing safe if I have gas appliances?
Usually, but a tighter house can sometimes pull exhaust back inside from a gas or oil furnace or water heater that vents on its own draft, without a fan. If you have one, consider having a Home Performance Contractor test that it vents properly before and after the sealing. Mention it when you call so it's in the plan.
Should I seal the attic or add insulation first?
Seal first, then insulate. The standard advice is to finish the air sealing before an attic insulation project, because once new insulation is down, the leaks under it are buried and hard to reach. If you're planning both, book the sealing first and the insulation after it.
Can I air seal my own attic in Hollister?
You can if the attic is easy to get into and move around in, and ENERGY STAR's do-it-yourself guide says its projects usually take a day or two. If you hire someone, California lets an unlicensed person take only small jobs, up to $1,000, and only when the work needs no permit and they have no employees.